TWP Stain Reviews Ratings Comparison | 100 Series | 200 Series | 1500 Series

so can it be purchase online and delivered or can you recomend something else

Jeff, TWP is not compliant for Canada

I aM IN CANADA AND WANT TO FIND A PRODUCT TO USE ON MY DOCK. IT IS AN ALUMINUM DOCK AND I WILL BE USING CEDAR. IS THIS PRODUCT OKAY TO USE AND CAN I GET IT HERE? I AM SERIOUSLY CONFUSED BY ALL THE DIFFERENT INFORMATION OUT THERE AND DON'T WANT TO RUIN A 48X8 FOOT DOCK

You cannot stain new wood right away. Best to let it weather, clean and brighten, then stain with the 1500. One coat on newer wood.

You would want the TWP 200 Series for Shakes and Shingles.

I'm looking for the best product for cedar shingles and deck on a house by the ocean - lot's of weather exposure. The house is in MA and the wood currently has old coats of oil-based Thompson's WaterSeal on it. Suggestions?
Thank you

We have a new kiln-dried pressure treated pine deck. When can we stain it? We plan to use TWP 1500. (The builder says soon since it is kiln dried.) How many saint coats the first time. Also, do we need to clean it first? We notice some of the wood is already getting a black mildew. Thanks.

Behr is very difficult to remove. You would need to strip with the Restore-A-Deck Stripper, sand off what you cannot strip, brighten the wood, then stain with TWP. If you use a clear (no color) then you will not have UV protection from graying.

I have a 7 year old deck of pressure treated wood. 2 years agoI applied a Bher sealer/preservative. The 5 gal can was morked CLEAR. I poured it our on the deck only to find it had a red tint.
Now I have a deck that is faded, graying and I want to clean the opld stain away, back to the wood and apply a CLEAR sealer.
What do I need to do to clean off the old product and reveal the original wood?
What products should I use for cleaning and preserving?

TWP contains curing or drying oils that seal and protect the exposed surface area.

Do any of your stains contain drying AND non-drying oils? I have an old, neglected deck in GA and read on a deck stain help site that non-drying, penetrating oils help rejuvenate the wood cells because these conditioning oils stay deep in the wood to replace the wood’s lost natural oils, while the drying oils separate from the conditioning oils, remaining on the exposed surface to cure & lock in the conditioning oils, providing a layer of protection against weathering. The combination of conditioning & weather protection is the key to reviving an older wood deck.

Podjo, For an older deck in TN, we would suggest the 1500 Series. The richer the color, the longer the UV protection.

I guess I have the same question as many others do? Which is best for me: 100 or 1500? I have a 10 year old pressure treated deck that has been sanded, cleaned and ready to go. Some deck boards have small splits. UV protection with color retention is paramount with mildew not really an issue. Site is in East Tennessee. Thanks.

GB, I would use the 1500 Series and only one coat on newer wood.

Steve, the TWP is not to be top coated. It is an all inclusive stain.

I am making a beam with several pieces of DSS grade southern yellow pine (not pressure treated) which will be wrapped in Cedar. I want to be able to get a very long life out of this build up. What version of stain would you recommend and how many coats would be required.

is your deck stain a one step stain, or after staining does it have to be topcoated

Jim, the 1500 is a low VOC stain for all states. It also contains a higher amount of solids.

What is the difference in the 100 and 1500 series stain? I know not much about paints/stains and would like to understand what makes the 1500 series better than 100 series.

Jim, I would prep the wood with the Gemini Restore Kit then re stain with the TWP 1516 for a slightly longer life.