Wood Stain Samples

I am building an outdoor dining table from old, redwood barn planks. the planks appear to have never been stained or treated. They were very gray. I've sanded them extensively down to bare wood. The planks have many cracks and nail holes which I like. I live in Southern California- mostly sunny, but rain in winter.
-is 1500 the product you'd recommend?
-do I have to treat/clean the planks before I stain even though I've sanded down to virgin wood?
-How long would it take to receive my order via basic shipping?
Thank you!

bobhoward:

can I put natural 1530 over cedartone 101?

As long as you have prepped properly you can.

can I put natural 1530 over cedartone 101?

Karen sue of 82:

I have a 5 year old pressure treated pine deck that was originally stained with semi transparent stain that peeled then we declared with solid color stain and hated the color. It also peeled and developed mildew spots. We are currently in the process of sanding all the solid color stain off and would to know how to clean and prepare the deck for restraining. There are a few areas where it looks like there are black streaks of mold even after sanding. We are in Atlanta with a wooded backyard where the deck gets morning sun and afternoon shade. Also which product should we use? Thanks so much!

After sanding all of the old solid stain off you should then proceed to prep with the Gemini Restore Kit. Use the 100 Series for this as it will soak in better for you sanded deck scenario.

Jane G.:

We recently had a pressure-treated pine fence erected in Atlanta. It is now time to stain/seal our new fence. I would prefer to use a product that preserves the natural color of the wood as opposed to applying a color. 1) Do you recommend the 100 or 1500 series, and 2) Which tone(s) (color or clear?) would best accomplish the preservation of the natural color while still doing a good job of protecting the wood?

1. Use the 1500 for the Fence
2. You need color/tint for UV protection. Lightest tint with UV protection would be the 1515 Honeytone.

I have a 5 year old pressure treated pine deck that was originally stained with semi transparent stain that peeled then we declared with solid color stain and hated the color. It also peeled and developed mildew spots. We are currently in the process of sanding all the solid color stain off and would to know how to clean and prepare the deck for restraining. There are a few areas where it looks like there are black streaks of mold even after sanding. We are in Atlanta with a wooded backyard where the deck gets morning sun and afternoon shade. Also which product should we use? Thanks so much!

We recently had a pressure-treated pine fence erected in Atlanta. It is now time to stain/seal our new fence. I would prefer to use a product that preserves the natural color of the wood as opposed to applying a color. 1) Do you recommend the 100 or 1500 series, and 2) Which tone(s) (color or clear?) would best accomplish the preservation of the natural color while still doing a good job of protecting the wood?

David s:

going to get a couple of samples to test color look before ordering the 5 gallon size. Recently installed 2inch horizontal front yard fence. It was fresh redwood and some in blonde color. Noticed the sun have chnaged it's color (tanning) so will have to do it soon to protect the fence. SF/SJ Bay Area of CA Also do you special order request? I'd like to add some gray in it (to eliminate the reddish to a soft warm gray color in brown)

Sorry but we do not do special orders or custom colors. It is not possible to add gray tint into the 1500 Series and the 100 Series grays are not allowed into California so you cannot mix them together.

going to get a couple of samples to test color look before ordering the 5 gallon size. Recently installed 2inch horizontal front yard fence. It was fresh redwood and some in blonde color. Noticed the sun have chnaged it's color (tanning) so will have to do it soon to protect the fence. SF/SJ Bay Area of CA Also do you special order request? I'd like to add some gray in it (to eliminate the reddish to a soft warm gray color in brown)

David Eekhoff:

I live on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington State. Have a cedar deck and front porch that need a fresh look. Deck is 4 years old, with a stain that has not endured; porch is original on a 20 year old house, It is covered with porch roof. What products would you suggest for our damp climate, rain and long seasons of moisture?

Prep first to remove any old stain with our restoration products. Stain with the TWP 100 Series for this climate.

I live on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington State. Have a cedar deck and front porch that need a fresh look. Deck is 4 years old, with a stain that has not endured; porch is original on a 20 year old house, It is covered with porch roof. What products would you suggest for our damp climate, rain and long seasons of moisture?

Iggy:

What type of wood is used for the samples?

The samples we sell are liquid samples of the stain that you can try on any wood type you would like.

What type of wood is used for the samples?

Roberta Klein:

Natural 1530
Clear 1500

Hello, what was your question?

Natural 1530
Clear 1500

Lou"][quote name="TheSealerStore:

[quote Yes you need to weather and prep kiln dried wood if applying to the smooth side. The wait is less (1-2 months) and you need to prep the remove the mill glaze. There is more to it then just moisture content of the wood. Use the 100 Series.[/quote]

Thanks for the prompt response. Plan was to apply to the ROUGH side. Does this change the weather time, or more importantly the mill Glaze removal?

You can apply to rough side now. There is no mill glaze on rough sawn wood and you do not need to wait.

TheSealerStore:

[quote Yes you need to weather and prep kiln dried wood if applying to the smooth side. The wait is less (1-2 months) and you need to prep the remove the mill glaze. There is more to it then just moisture content of the wood. Use the 100 Series.

Thanks for the prompt response. Plan was to apply to the ROUGH side. Does this change the weather time, or more importantly the mill Glaze removal?

Lou:

I've read good reviews about the quality of the TWP100 as well as the 1500. I like it's color retention(resistance to UV breaking down color).

I'd like to apply it to an outdoor kitchen surface that is Kiln dried 'Tight Knot' Cedar. Plan to apply to rough side. (wood is new)

Concern is the application description seems difficult. Waiting 4-12 months to acclumate, then apply some additional cost cleaner starts to make this seem less attractive.

Does the 4-12 month period still apply if the wood is Kiln Dried?

BTW: Still not clear on benefits of TWP100 vs. 1500. What do you recommend? I live in North Texas, so real hot summers and short winters.

Yes you need to weather and prep kiln dried wood if applying to the smooth side. The wait is less (1-2 months) and you need to prep the remove the mill glaze. There is more to it then just moisture content of the wood. Use the 100 Series.

I've read good reviews about the quality of the TWP100 as well as the 1500. I like it's color retention(resistance to UV breaking down color).

I'd like to apply it to an outdoor kitchen surface that is Kiln dried 'Tight Knot' Cedar. Plan to apply to rough side. (wood is new)

Concern is the application description seems difficult. Waiting 4-12 months to acclumate, then apply some additional cost cleaner starts to make this seem less attractive.

Does the 4-12 month period still apply if the wood is Kiln Dried?

BTW: Still not clear on benefits of TWP100 vs. 1500. What do you recommend? I live in North Texas, so real hot summers and short winters.

Emilio Ramos:

Looking for Client sample clear flat stain samples on wood chips, can you tell me where to get them

These are not available anymore, just small sample bottles.